Car Dashboard warning lights
Car · Beginner
Dashboard warning lights
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A warning light is the car telling you something needs attention. Red usually means stop as soon as it is safe. Amber often means get it checked soon, but you should still read the handbook rather than guessing. This guide is to help you decide whether to stop, drive gently to a garage, or book a test. It is not a diagnosis, and it is not a reason to ignore a light that does not appear here.
Your call
Go or no?
Fancy giving it a go, or would you rather call a garage? There’s no wrong answer.
Right then. Here’s the kit, then the steps.
No problem. We’ll show you how to find a local garage.
At a glance
Shop the full kit
You can pick up the items below as you need them. Prices vary by shop and country, so we have not invented a figure here — check the live price before you buy. Shop links go to a product search on a local store for your country.
All-in-one kit
There is not usually a single boxed kit for this job. Buy the items below as you need them, and skip anything you already have.
Before you start
Safety
Stop and get a pro: If a red oil-pressure, brake, coolant-temperature, airbag-fault during a problem, or charging light comes on with a change in how the car feels, stop as soon as it is safe, rather than “limping” another ten miles. Do not work on airbags, brakes, steering, the fuel system, or high-voltage parts. A diagnostic tool you have not been shown how to use is not a substitute for a garage when a red light is on.
- If you need to stop, do it safely: indicate, leave the carriageway if you can, and use hazard lights. Do not stop on a blind bend or in a live lane.
- A red brake warning can mean low fluid or a serious fault. Do not keep driving “because the pedal still works”.
- If the car is overheating, switch off as soon as you can stop safely. Do not open a hot coolant cap.
- On a hybrid or EV, treat any high-voltage or isolated-system warning as a no — have the car recovered.
Prep that is worth doing
- Keep the handbook in the car, or a photo of the warning-light page on your phone.
- Note whether a light is red, amber or flashing, and whether it appeared with a noise, a smell, a temperature rise or a change in the brakes or steering.
- Do not ignore a light just because the car still “feels fine”.
Tools and materials
Check the live price at a shop you trust. Typical prices on this site, where they appear, were checked in the UK and may be out of date. Do not invent or assume a figure from this table. Shop links go to a product search on a local store for your country.
| Item | Why you need it | Typical price | Shop link |
|---|---|---|---|
| The vehicle handbook, or the maker’s official light guide | The symbol on your dashboard may differ slightly between brands. The handbook is the first reference. | Typically £5–£12 at a UK shop. Check the live price. | |
| A torch | To look for obvious drips or a loose filler cap after you have stopped safely. | Typically £8–£18 at a UK shop. Check the live price. | |
| A tyre pressure gauge, if a tyre warning is on | Many tyre-pressure lights are a low tyre, which you can check yourself. See our tyre guide. | Typically £8–£20 at a UK shop. Check the live price. |
Shop this list:
Step-by-step
Identify the light, read the handbook, then decide: stop now, drive carefully to a garage, or book a check. When in doubt, stop.
Notice the colour and whether it is flashing
Red is urgent. Amber or yellow is a warning. Green or blue is usually information (headlights, cruise control). A flashing light is often more urgent than a steady one — a flashing engine-management or glow-plug light can mean “stop reducing damage”.
Stop now for these, as soon as it is safe
Oil-pressure (an oil can, usually red): the engine may be starved of oil. Brake (a circle with an exclamation mark or the word BRAKE), especially with a heavy or low pedal: there may be a serious fault or the parking brake may still be on — check that first, then stop if the light stays. Coolant temperature (a thermometer in waves) or a rising gauge plus steam: you can wreck the engine. Airbag or SRS with a crash or a fault that also affects the seatbelt pretensioners: treat the system as unreliable and get it checked; if the light came on after a bump, stop and get advice rather than driving as if nothing happened. A battery or CHARGE light that stays on while you drive can mean the charging system has failed — electrics may die, and on some cars the steering can get heavy. Reduce electrical load and get to a safe stop or a very nearby garage; do not start a long trip.
Drive carefully to a garage, or book one soon, for many amber lights
Engine management or “check engine” (usually amber): the car may go into a limp mode. Avoid hard acceleration and get it read. ABS (amber): the ordinary brakes should still work, but anti-lock may not — drive more gently, especially in the wet, and get it checked. Traction or stability control: often related, and sometimes triggered by a tyre-size or sensor issue. AdBlue or emissions warnings: follow the handbook; running some of these dry can prevent a restart. A service or spanner light is usually a scheduled reminder, not an emergency.
Check simple causes only when it is safe
A tyre-pressure light: check the tyres, including the spare if relevant, with a gauge. A door or boot open light: close it. A bulb light: see our bulb guide. A low-washer light: top up screenwash. Do not start unplugging sensors to clear a light.
If the car feels wrong, treat it as a stop even if the light is amber
Vibration, a burning smell, a loss of power, steam, or a change in the brakes or steering matters more than the colour of the lamp. Stop safely and get help.
Have the fault read rather than guessing a part
A garage or a mobile mechanic can read the codes and test the system. Clearing a code without a fix only hides the message.
General guidance only. Check our disclaimer.
Common mistakes
- Ignoring a red oil or temperature light to “get home”. Minutes of driving can destroy an engine. Stop and recover the car if you need to.
- Assuming an amber engine light can wait for months. It can be minor, or it can be a misfire that damages the catalyst. Get it read sooner rather than later.
- Unplugging the battery to clear a light. That can reset radios and control units and will not fix the cause. On some cars it can also cause new problems.
- Buying a part because a forum said that light “is always the oxygen sensor”. Codes point to a system, not always a failed part. Test first.
- Driving as normal with an ABS or brake warning because the pedal still feels firm. The back-up system may have failed. Leave a longer gap and get it checked the same day if you can.
FAQ
The lights all flash on when I start the car. Is that a fault?
A short bulb-check at ignition on is normal. They should go out after a few seconds, or when the engine starts. A light that stays on or comes back while you drive is the one to act on.
Can I read the codes myself with a cheap plug-in tool?
A basic tool can show a code, which you can write down for a garage. It will not always tell you what to replace, and it will not make a red oil or brake light safe to ignore.
The tyre light comes on in cold weather.
Pressure drops as the air gets colder. Check the pressures cold and adjust them. If the light returns quickly, look for a puncture.
Which of your other guides should I open next?
A tyre light: check tyre pressure and tread. A bulb light: replace a headlight or brake-light bulb. A washer or low-fluid message: top up screenwash, oil and coolant. If the battery has just gone flat: jump-start a flat battery, or find a garage.
Would rather not DIY? Find a local garage
If a red light is on, the car feels unsafe, or you cannot tell what a symbol means, do not guess. A garage or mobile mechanic can read the fault and tell you whether it is safe to drive.
We may earn from shop links, at no extra cost to you. Disclosure